Boussinesq-type gravity waves appear to accurately describe vertical motion in granular flows found in geophysics.
surface waves & tides
Posted inScience Updates
Forecasting and Communicating Risk of Rip Currents, Wave Runup
NOAA Coastal Hazards Resilience Workshop—Rip Currents and Wave Runup; Suffolk, Virginia, 14–16 April 2015
Posted inResearch Spotlights
Wave Ripples Spaced by Flow Downstream of Ripple Peaks
The well-known ratio between sand ripple spacing and wave-driven flow oscillations may be dictated by flow dynamics downstream of ripple crests.
Posted inResearch Spotlights
Wave Energy Affects the Surf Zone Heat Budget
A study of water temperature in nearshore environments shows that wave energy was the second-largest driver of temperature changes in the surf zone.
Posted inResearch Spotlights
Flood Risk from Storm Surge is Increasing in New York
Rediscovered historical records of sea level in New York Harbor show the increasing threat of storm surges.
Posted inResearch Spotlights
Reading Backscatter from Near-shore Ocean Waves
Researchers use radar wave scattering properties of nearshore waves to studying shoreline dynamics.